Illuminated River Rock Landscaping Lights:
Q: How should I install each of these lights?
A: See Illuminated River Rock Installation Procedure.pdf (conceptualpolymer.com) to view an installation guide. The rubber LED light socket exits the river rock from its center. There most be clearance under the black and red wires that exit the socket.
Q: What else is typically required for wiring, power, etc if I will be starting from scratch?
A: You will need:
* 18 gauge outdoor (2-wire) cable. A 100 foot roll is typically less than $30.
* Water resistant wire connectors - 1 type is shown on the install page but there are other types, such as the grease-filled wire nuts. You will need 2 for each river rock light.
* A 12 volt AC wall-mounted power supply/transformer/timer with optical sensor
The output power in watts requirement will depend upon your desired number of river rocks, each of which will consume 1.5 watts. A 40 watt power supply can easily supply power for 20 river rock lights.
* Tools: Wire stripper, digging trowel, Phillips and flat blade screwdrivers (for the power supply box wire connection screw terminals)
Q: Are the rocks waterproof and UV resistant?
A: The rock wiring, when used with outdoor connectors and extension cable, is highly water resistant. We have tested 15 rock installations that were subject to heavy rain, numerous times over the span of 6 months or more. No connection has ever failed. The polyurethane river rocks will never discolor or fade from UV light (sun) exposure.
Q: Can I use these river rocks in ponds?
A: Extra wire sealing must be completed before immersing a rock in water. Our Pond-capable rocks will waterproof cabling is currently under test and should be available for sale by the end of 2021.

Air/Oil Separators
Q: Where is the best place for me to install my CP Air/Oil Separator?
A: Ideally, you will want to mount it away from engine and radiator heat, since the higher temps allow airborne oil/fuel/water droplets to more easily squirm past filter media. Also, try to mount your kit so that it is lower than your valve covers. Loops of PCV hose routing, either before or after the air/oil separator will tend to collect liquids that can eventually slow the flow and velocity of crankcase air that is heading toward the separator.

Q: I noticed that one port in the manifold is labeled (engraved) "VAC". Does this mean the the separator is one-way only?
A: The filter media includes two clusters of media having two different densities. The (primary) media you see at the open end of the filter tube is segmented and wound 316 stainless steel wire. While this may be similar to what is in other catch cans, in this design, it is only the first line of defense. Underneath this "course" media is a much finer (temperature and chemical resistant) non-metalic strand that is supported by the same type of segmented stainless steel wire as the primary filter media. This wire prevents the very finely-stranded media from collapsing upon itself when wet.
  As you can imagine, the primary filter media traps larger oil/fuel/water droplets and assists in clustering and routing the entrained liquid so that its increasing mass causes it to drop into the reservoir. Smaller, low-to-sub micron liquid droplets have to tangle with the finer filter media, which makes its path very difficult to navigate.
  This is why it is important for crankcase gasses to be pulled through the separator in the as-designed direction. Always connect your engine's vacuum source that was plumbed to the PCV or orifice, to the "VAC" port of your separator's manifold.
  The general path of PCV hoses is:
Air Cleaner
Fresh air hose to valve cover (to provide makeup air to the engine)
Crankcase vapors are then routed to the PCV valve or oriface (if factory-equipped), to your CP separator (port OPPOSITE the "VAC" port), out the "VAC" port, and to your engine's vacuum source.

Q: How When should I clean my High Efficiency filter media?
A: We recommend that you clean your filter media when vacuum pressure drop is 3" Hg (inches of Mercury). Here's how to check:
1. Tee in a vacuum pressure gauge in between the PCV valve (or dirty air hose from engine) to the air/oil separator. Record the reading.
2. Remove your separator or just its filter/filter tube and repeat the vacuum pressure measurement. The difference between the 2 readings should be no more than 3: Hg. If it IS, clean your filter media as follows:
a) Unscrew the filter media tube from your separator's manifold.
b) If you are using our filter cleaning kit, review the photo in our catalog. Place the tube with large opening inside the wire mesh screen. You may have to form the screen's cavity to accomodate the filter tube.
c) Place the wire mesh into a glass jar or polyethylene or polypropylene cup of at least 4-oz.
d) Fill the 8-oz bottle (half way) with Acetone or MAF cleaner and dispense it into the smaller end of the aluminum tube. Vary the angle of the steam so that it cleans as much of the filter media as possible.
e) Repeat until the fluid in the container is fairly clean. Allow the filter media to dry for at least 30 minutes before using it in a running vehicle.